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SE ASIA 2000/01
Jets to Bangkok
A Low Xmas
Smoking Monks &
Slow Boats in Cambodia
The Seventy-Five Cent
Saigon Crewcut
Sortie Inevitable
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Ko Chang / Thailand
21 - 25 Dec 2000
A few days before Christmas, I board a mini-bus bound for Trat province, en route to the island Ko Chang. It's a five hour drive to the coast on the gulf of Thailand. From there I wait for the ferry to take me 45 minutes to the island I've only read about-- never met anyone that's been there. I'm hoping it will be the right mix of social opportunities and yet provide a fair amount of isolationist tranquility and natural beauty for my first xmas away from the rest of my family, back in the snowy, cold northeast US. I will be delighted to find just how perfectly it fits these parameters.
Ko Chang. Hat Sai Khao.
The ferry arrives at the dock on the island and the passengers disembark. I've befriended another solo traveler, a young woman who's been on the move for years. She's from England but has just come from India -- and before that work and travels in Australia and Central Europe. It's a good friendship-- it's nice to have such a pleasant companion to explore the island, talk with over meals, and hear about all the parts of the world she's seen. On Ko Chang I also make the acquaintance of several others that provide some company over the period of days that I spend there. It's perfect-- much time is spent alone, but it is nice to have some social context for some of the meals and evening refreshments at the simplistic resort restaurant.
White Sands Beach resort, at the northernmost end of White Sands Beach, Hat Sai Khao is where I find an oceanside thatched bungalow meters from the beach and the waves. The window opens up onto the waterview and the sound of the ocean wakes me each morning.
Me, an island sunset, and my fancy 'fisherman's pants.'
The sunrises and sunsets are gorgeous-- I catch every one. Each day I spend time walking down the beach, having leisurely meals, and swimming in the warm salty water. I've never really had a holiday on my own that was this relaxing. Most of my travels are so much more adventure and fast-paced-- this is a refreshing change-- but I know once I get to Cambodia there will be plenty of adventure.
Than Mayom Falls, Ko Chang Nat'l Park.
One day I rent a motorbike to explore, including a trip to Than Mayom falls halfway around the island, over treacherous up and downhill 'roads' which range from paved to potholed to loose dirt and puddles. Initially I start off with my english friend but she fears for the bikes and roads safety, so we return. I go off again alone, but this time with a helmet. The number of travelers I'll meet in the next few weeks with cuts, bruises and scars from motorbike accidents prove that I've done the right thing in picking up additional safety mesaures. The falls themselves are amazing-- a short trek into the rainforest from my parking point. I'm the only one there. I climb the slippery rocks and find myself in a chilling but refreshing pool of fresh water splashing down from above, the hot sun drying me only minutes after my difficult, quite technical climbing out onto the rocks.
Oceanside thatched bungalow-- $9/night.
Xmas itself is fairly uneventful with the exception of a nice christmas eve party that the resort has put together-- so much to eat, and my new friends and I sit on the beach at the barbecue long into the dark skies of this tropical paradise. I retire to my hut a little past midnight and sit on the porch listening to the deep, tranquil songs of LOW on my headphones. Chilling and beautiful. I write some more in my journal, reflecting on the 25 previous christmas eves I've had in various parts of the world. The ocean is lapping up on the sands, the fishing boats far off in the distance are glowing with their fish-attracting bright lights off on the horizon. Eventually I climb into my bed and fall asleep, sleeping soundly and peacefully.
After breakfast the next morning, I take a small boat out to the ferry waiting in the deeper waters. I head back to Bangkok, intent on reclaiming my passport at the travel agency with its new Vietnam visa.
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